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Style: towards fast-fashion, eco-responsible influencers are rebelling

Stylist Masego Morgan on December 15, 2022 in Simon’s City, South Africa. (©AFP/GIANLUIGI GUERCIA)

TikTok and Instagram, new vectors for selling extra accountable trend? On these networks, temples of unbridled consumption, counter-current influencers attempt to promote clothes decisions which might be extra respectful of the planet.

Beginning with Masego Morgan, who fell from his chair when a “quick trend” big provided him $1,000 for a single promotional submit.

Not solely has the South African influencer, with 10,200 followers on Instagram, by no means been provided such a sum to advertise a model, however the latter represents every part she fights: the overconsumption of low-cost, dangerous garments. to the planet and produced by underpaid employees.

Like different world influencers bent on battling the armada of massive brand-sponsored posts on Instagram, TikTok and YouTube, her credo is straightforward: purchase, okay! However much less. And higher if used or ultra-durable.

A philosophy inherited from her childhood, when she borrowed second-hand garments from her elegant mom, who noticed recycling as a “revolutionary act”.

“For me, there was by no means any stigma connected to sporting second-hand garments,” she instructed AFP from her dwelling in Cape City.

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This proponent of “accountable ingesting” stands out from the standard trend posts by posting playful and non-guilt posts, full of colourful, recycled and handmade objects, which she wears a number of occasions.

“If we do the identical factor as the style influencers” who on daily basis parade on video with new garments, “we are going to find yourself having the identical toxicity”, she believes.

Consumption doubled

However this selection has a draw back: not possible to make a residing with content material centered on sustainability.

Whereas a typical influencer in a developed nation can earn a six-figure annual wage from sponsors and affiliate hyperlinks, Masego Morgan has to do a facet job in graphic design.

In recent times, social networks have taken on appreciable significance for manufacturers, whose advertising was beforehand primarily based on print or tv ads.

They’ll now attain thousands and thousands of individuals by influencers who promote their garments in tales or #outfitoftheday posts.

Stylist Masego Morgan on December 15, 2022 in Simon's Town, South Africa.
Stylist Masego Morgan on December 15, 2022 in Simon’s City, South Africa. (©AFP/Archives/GIANLUIGI GUERCIA)

These campaigns stimulate gross sales: in 20 years, world consumption of clothes, footwear and equipment has doubled.

However this comes at a excessive value for the planet. The style business represents between 2 and eight% of greenhouse fuel emissions.

So many messages which have contributed to the emergence of “new trend influencers” who’re extra involved concerning the atmosphere.

Amongst them is Venetia La Manna, a 33-year-old Briton with 197,000 Instagram followers, whose “Recipe for Catastrophe” video collection on the social and environmental injury of firms like Adidas, Amazon and Nike has been vastly profitable with round 6.5 million views.

“Brokers of Change”

In contrast to Masego Morgan, she earns her residing by her on-line work, supported by a wider viewers and collaborations with highly effective second-hand websites like Vestiaire Collective or eBay. »

“Over the previous 5 years, I actually really feel that the issue has emerged”, with quick trend becoming a member of “plastic and meals on the coronary heart of the controversy”, notes Ms. La Manna.

These influencers are “brokers of change,” says Simone Cipriani, founder and director of the Moral Style Initiative and president of the United Nations Sustainable Style Alliance.

“They counter the destructive affect that you simply normally discover on social networks, the place we merely advocate overconsumption,” she provides.

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Employees of collective locker room, December 4, 2017 in Tournoig, in the North.
Staff of collective locker room, December 4, 2017 in Tournoig, within the North. (©AFP/Archives/PHILIPPE HUGUEN)

Particularly since, on the identical time, the second-hand market continues to develop: its gross sales ought to attain 218 billion {dollars} by 2026, towards 96 billion in 2021. A participant like Vinted has thus seen the variety of its customers nearly double in three years, from 23 to 45 million between 2019 and 2022.

Supply: © 2023 AFP

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